This issue, we meet a local Gondolier and float around the magnificent city of secrets.

Venice is the consummate magician. It makes marble palaces vanish into silent fogs, labyrinthine calli (streets) disappear at the whim of moody tides, and can even turn the most pedestrian of people into fantastical, masked creatures. Just like its world-famous Carnevale, Venice thrives on mystery and awe, from the secret passageways that riddle Gothic Palazzo Ducale, to the esoteric powers of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, to the inexplicable radiance of Titian's Assunta altarpiece. After countless sojourns, I am yet to tire of the place. Some spells are simply too hard to break.

This sanctuary on a lagoon is virtually the same as it was six hundred years ago, which adds to the fascinating character. Venice has decayed since its heyday and is heavily touristed (there are 56000 residents and 20 million tourists per year), but the romantic charm remains. 

IN THIS ISSUE
Venice Old & New: Thriving Contemporary Art scene
Drink like a Venetian – and go on a secret wine tour
One Day in the Dolomites
The New wave of Masquerade Festivals
Best of spots for a bird’s-eye view of Venice
+ Much More

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